Monday, June 30, 2014

Let the Sun Shine In With Skylights from American Home Contractors

Let the Sun Shine In With Skylights

Is your kitchen or bath dark and dreary? A skylight will not only brighten up the room, but also add an architectural element as well.
Want to open up a dark interior kitchen or bath? Want to make the beauty of the open sky part of your design plans?
Consider installing a skylight, suggests Shannon Weigand, a certified master designer with Ellis Kitchen and Bath Studio in Columbus, Ohio.
"It's a way of introducing more natural light into a room, bringing more of the outdoors inside," she says. "Where there's no exterior wall to put a window into, you can create a window in the ceiling. And many skylights can be opened for ventilation in the summer."
PLAN WELL
Just be sure to plan carefully to achieve the most pleasing and efficient results, advises Arrol Gellner, an Emeryville, Calif.-based architect and author of the nationally syndicated newspaper column "Architext."
"You really need to be aware of what the outcome will be and not just cross your fingers and knock a hole in the ceiling," says Gellner. "It's a matter of good planning."
He also notes that adding a skylight in the kitchen or bath has different effects than adding a window. "People tend to use them interchangeably," he says, "and that's a mistake."
For example, Gellner points out, where a window in a wall automatically catches the low-angled rays of the winter sun and limits the high-angled glare of the summer sun, a skylight in the ceiling tends to do the opposite.
FOLLOW THE SUN
"I find that people regard the sun as a 100-watt bulb nailed to the sky that never moves," says Gellner. "But you have to be aware where the sun starts out and where it ends up. Skylights in sloping roofs facing south are especially liable to overheat rooms. North-facing skylights will admit a soft, diffuse light all day long, although they won't give that sun-splashed effect."
To protect the new cabinets in your kitchen or the oak vanity in your bath from the potentially bleaching effects of direct sunlight, you can get gray- or bronze-tinted glass that blocks the sun's ultraviolet rays.
An additional form of shading, such as built-in blinds or horizontal curtains, can also help you regulate the amount of light coming in. "With a lot of skylights," says Weigand, "a blind system is integrated into the unit." Comfort glazing, a standard feature on many skylight brands, provides insulation against heat buildup in summer and heat loss in winter.
PICK GENEROUS SIZES
"One really common mistake I see people make is to use too small a skylight," says Gellner. "Many times I've gone into bathrooms and seen these tiny, 16" x 16" skylights way at the top of three- or four-foot light shafts through the attic above. It's a tremendous amount of effort for very little outcome in terms of light.
"Whether people think it costs less money [for a smaller skylight], I don't know, but the truth is that the cost of skylights is overwhelmingly in their installation. So whether it's a tiny skylight or a huge one, the cost of installation is approximately the same. So it makes sense that if you're doing to do it, you really should make it a size that's generous enough to do some good."
GO TUBULAR
Of course, you need to work with the space you've got. A very small second bath may be best served by a tubular skylight. The tube consists of a clear acrylic dome on the roof that captures sunlight, a highly polished reflective steel or aluminum pipe that carries light through the attic, and a flush or domed fixture in the ceiling that diffuses light throughout the room.
Tubes are easy to install and bring natural light to rooms too small for a full-sized skylight. They can be installed for less than $1,000. Regular skylights range in cost from $60 per square foot to $100 per square foot for double-glazed glass skylights.
A high-quality skylight installed with the factory flashing kit made especially for it will virtually eliminate the risk of leaking and water damage to the roof around the installation site. Glazing reduces condensation inside the skylight, and new skylights are also equipped with channeling to carry condensation away. If you're installing the skylight in a bathroom, make sure there is adequate ventilation to deal with excess moisture.
MAKE IT LOOK GOOD
While such practical concerns are important, Gellner urges homeowners to pay attention to aesthetics as well: "Outside, avoid installing the skylight on a roof surface that faces the street. Front-facing skylights look jarringly out of place on traditional home styles, since they were seldom used in the original designs."
Inside, he says, "try to align the skylight opening with a door, window or some other existing feature, so it doesn't look haphazard. You really need to look at the ceiling as the work you're composing."
Weigand agrees. When you add a skylight, she says, "you get a greater, more open visual feeling because the ceiling is no longer a solid block. It lends an architectural element to what's happening. A certain spacing or a certain decorative treatment around the skylight can pull the ceiling in as a design element in the room."
And in an enclosed interior kitchen or bath, that special touch can make all the difference.

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Classic Shingle Style for a Seaside Summer Home


http://www.americanhomecontractors.com

This classic shingle-style summer home looks as though it’s been perched above the Atlantic Ocean for a century, but in fact it’s new. The house was designed by architectNancy Leslie, who completed the space planning inside, and interior designer Patti Watson ofTaste Design, who joined the project after the house was framed. Working with clients who loved traditional style and antiques, Watson designed the interior architectural details and chose the fixtures, finishes, lighting, colors and furniture. Mindful of her clients’ love of formal style, Watson created a careful balance of classic pieces, modern touches, a soothing color palette and subtle coastal touches.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

How to Choose a New Front Door Color (via houzz) from American Home Contractors

Don't let your home blend into the background — even if you're not in the market for changing your exterior color scheme, a new coat of paint on your front door could be just the makeover your home needs.

Use our color guides to each color to learn which hue, from unexpected purple to bright yellow to elegant black, will work well on your exterior door.

http://www.americanhomecontractors.com

http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6861936?utm_source=Houzz&utm_campaign=u545&utm_medium=email&utm_content=gallery9

Thursday, June 5, 2014

How to Upgrade your Home Exterior on a Budget by American Home

Even though the interiors of your home is where you live and play, the exterior of your home is what makes your house ‘shine’ to the neighbors! Although, many think to update the exterior of your home requires a big budget. On the contrary, details and overall curb appeal will boost the exterior of your home without having to spend a few paychecks for great results. Regardless of the time of year, there are always exterior improvements that you can do.
exterior home 1 e1294656709525 How to Update the Exterior of your Home on a Budget
  • Curb appeal can get you far: Before you spend a dime on your physical house, look at your yard, landscaping, sidewalk, and front entryway. In all of these areas, a few hours of yard work in tidying up your property can go a long way. Cut and trim grass or rake leaves and clear fallen tree debris around the yard. Conceal trash cans and recycle bins out of eye sight from the general public. Stand back across the street and see if new landscaping, mulching, or just general sweeping and tidying up the yard will make your home look better.
  • Painting can go a long way: Depending on what your budget is, painting can give you a lot of bang for your buck. Whether you paint the entire house – for a stucco or wood siding home, or if you stick to the trim around windows and doors. Painting can give your home a whole new look without having to spend a lot. When painting don’t forget picket fences around your yard, trim around the eaves of the roof, and replacing old gutters and downspouts may catapult the appeal of the exterior of your home.
exterior home lighting e1294656961607 How to Update the Exterior of your Home on a Budget
  • Updating the details: Once you have tackled the large extent of your home, updating details such as lighting fixtures, shutters, and house numbers can be affordable and lend to a beautiful exterior of your home. Front entry door hardware and house mounted mailboxes are also a great place to start. Consider using new metal finishes, or different decorative styled lighting fixtures at your garage and/or front entry. Similarly to changing plumbing fixtures in your bathroom, exterior details will add the crowning touches for minimal amount of cost.
exterior home porch e1294656862279 How to Update the Exterior of your Home on a Budget
  • Add charm: The strongest appeal to any home is adding bits of charm that welcome you from the street. Add individualized details that will make your home unique from the neighbors. Window boxes of artificial or real plants outside of windows, or adding a sitting bench and subtle walkway lighting can boost the exterior appeal instantly. If you have a large front porch, add furniture, outdoor area rugs, and wall décor to bring the indoors out.
exterior home charm e1294656793771 How to Update the Exterior of your Home on a Budget
The exterior of your home deserves the same attention to detail as the interior. Although, we forget about it once we are living inside the house, exterior and curb appeal are essential for neighborhood appeal, and trying to sell your home. Remember, your entire home is one entity and for minimal cost you can update the exterior, and feel good about it. Who knows, you may inspire your neighbors to do the same!

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Exterior Home Upgrades Slide Show from American Home Contractors

http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/exteriors/curb-appeal/before-and-after-home-exteriors/

Siding, Windows, Roofs, Gutters, Shutters, Decks and more, these improvements increase curb appeal and your home’s value. Check out these beautiful transformations featured by Better Home & Garden.

http://www.americanhomecontractors.com 

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

A Glossary of Roofing Terms from American Home Contractors

A

Algae- Rooftop fungus that can leave dark stains on roofing.
Angled fasteners- Roofing nails and staples driven into decks at angles not parallel to the deck.
APA- American Plywood Association. Tests and sets standards for all varieties of plywoods used in the U.S.
Apron flashing- Metal flashing used at chimney fronts.
ARMA- Asphalt Roofing Manufacturer’s Association. Organization of roofing manufacturers.
Asphalt- A bituminous waterproofing agent used in various types of roofing materials.
Asphalt concrete primer- Asphalt based primer used to prepare concrete and metal for asphalt sealant.
Asphalt plastic cement- Asphalt based sealant material, meeting ASTM D4586 Type I or II. Used to seal and adhere roofing materials. Also called mastic, blackjack, roof tar, bull.
ASTM-The American Society for Testing and Materials. Organization that sets standards for a wide variety of materials, including roofing.

B

Back-surfacing- Granular material added to shingle’s back to assist in keeping separate during delivery and storage.
Blistering- Bubbles or pimples in roofing materials. Usually moisture related. In shingles blisters are either moisture under the material or moisture trapped inside the material.
Blow-offs- When shingles are subjected to high winds, and are forced off a roof deck.
Buckling- When a wrinkle or ripple affects shingles or their underlayments.

C

Closed-cut valley- A shingle valley installation method where one roof plane’s shingles completely cover the other’s. The top layer is cut to match the valley lines.
Cobra®- GAFMC’s respected brand name for ventilation products.
Corrosion- When rust, rot or age negatively affect roofing metals.
Counter-flashing-The metal or siding material that is installed over roof-top base flashing systems.
Country Mansion® & Country Estates™-GAFMC’s limited lifetime warranty shingle.
Crickets- A peaked water diverter installed behind chimneys and other large roof projections. Effectively diverts water around projections.
Cupping- When shingles are improperly installed over an existing roof or are over-exposed, they form a curl or cup.

D

Deck- The substrate over which roofing is applied. Usually plywood, wood boards, or planks.
Dormer- A raised roof extending out of a larger roof plane.
Drip-edge- An installed lip that keeps shingles up off of the deck at edges, and extends shingles out over eaves and gutters, and prevents water from backing up under shingles.
Dubl-Coverage® Mineral Guard- Roll roofing material with 19" selvage edge for double coverage over roof deck.

E

Eaves- The roof edge from the fascia to the structure’s outside wall. In general terms, the first three feet across a roof is termed the eave.
End-laps- When installing rolled products in roofing, the area where a roll ends on a roof, and is overlapped by the next section of rolled material. (underlayments, rolled roofing)
Exposure- The area on any roofing material that is left exposed to the elements.

F

Fasteners- Nails or staples used in securing roofing to the deck.
FHA-The Federal Housing Authority. Sets construction standards throughout the U.S.
Fiberglass mat- fibers condensed into strong, resilient mats for use in roofing materials.
Flange-Metal pan extending up or down a roof slope around flashing pieces. Usually at chimneys and plumbing vents
Flashing- Materials used to waterproof a roof around any projections through the roof deck.
Flashing cement- Sealant designed for use around flashing areas, typically thicker than plastic cement.

G

Gable roof- Traditional roof style; two peaked roof planes meeting at a ridge line of equal size.
GAFCant®- GAFMC cant strips for deflecting water away from flashing areas. Typically used on low slope roofs.
Golden Pledge®- GAFMC’s strongest limited warranty for shingles. America’s strongest steep slope warranty.
Grand Sequoia®- GAFMC shingle with wood shake appearance.
Grand Slate™- GAFMC shingle with slate appearance.
Granules- Crushed rock that is coated with a ceramic coating and fired, used as top surface on shingles.

H

Hand-sealing- The method to assure sealing of shingles on very steep slopes, in high wind areas, and when installing in cold weather.
High nailing- When shingles are nailed or fastened above the manufacturer’s specified nail location.
Hip legs- The down-slope ridges on hip roofs.
Hip roof- A roof with four roof planes coming together at a peak and four separate hip legs.

I

Ice Dam- When a snow load melts on a roof and re-freezes at the eave areas. Ice dams force water to "back-up" a roof and cause leakage.

L

"L" flashing- Continuous metal flashing consisting of several feet of metal. Used at horizontal walls, bent to resemble an "L".
Laminated shingles- Shingles made from two separate pieces that are laminated together. GAFMC Timberline® Series, Country Mansion® and Grand Sequoia® Shingles. Also called dimensional shingles and architectural shingles.
Laps- The area where roll roofing or rolled underlayments overlap one another during application (see also side laps and end laps).
Low slopes-Roof pitches less than 4/12 are considered low sloped roofs. Special installation practices must be used on roofs sloped 2/12-4/12.

M

Mansard- A roof design with a nearly vertical roof plane that ties into a roof plane of less slope at its peak.
Mats- The general term for the base material of shingles and certain rolled products.
Modified bitumen- Rolled roofing membrane with polymer modified asphalt and either polyester or fiberglass reinforcement.
Mortar- Mixture of sand, mortar, limestone and water used in bonding a chimney’s bricks together.

N

Nail-guide-line- Painted line on laminated shingles, to aid in the proper placement of fasteners.
Nail-pop- When a nail is not fully driven, it sits up off the roof deck.
Nesting- Installing a second layer of shingles aligning courses with the original roof to avoid shingle cupping.
NRCA- The National Roofing Contractors Association. Respected national organization of roofing contractors.

O

Open valley- Valley installation using metal down the valley center.
Organic mat- Material made from recycled wood pulp and paper.
Organic Shingles- Shingles made from organic (paper) mats.
OSB- Oriented Strand Board. A decking made from wood chips and lamination glues.
Over-driven- The term used for fasteners driven through roofing material with too much force, breaking the material.
Over-exposed- Installing shingle courses higher than their intended exposure.

P

Pitch-ratio of the rise of the roof to the span of the roof.
Power vents- Electrically powered fans used to move air from attics and structures.
Plastic cement- Asphalt based sealant. Also called bull, mastic, tar, asphalt cement.
Plumbing vents- Term used to describe plumbing pipes that project through a roof plane. Also called vent stacks.
Prevailing wind- The most common direction of wind for a particular region.

Q

Quarter sized- Term for the size of hand sealant dabs, size of a U.S. 25¢ piece.

R

Racking- Method of installing shingles in a straight up the roof manner.
Rake edge-The vertical edge of gable style roof planes.
Release film- The plastic sheet installed on the back of Weather Watch® and StormGuard® underlayments. Used for packaging and handling. Remove before installation.
Rigid vent- Hard plastic ridge vent material.
Roof louvers- Rooftop rectangular shaped roof vents. Also called box vents, mushroom vents, airhawks, soldier vents.
Roof plane- A roofing area defined by having four separate edges. One side of a gable, hip or mansard roof.

S

Sawteeth- The exposed section of double thickness on Timberline® Series shingles. Shaped to imitate wood shake look on the roof.
Self-sealant- Sealant installed on shingles. After installation, heat and sun will activate sealant to seal the shingles to each other.
Selvage- The non exposed area on rolled roofing. Area without granules. Designed for nail placement and sealant.
Shed roof- Roof design of a single roof plane. Area does not tie into any other roofs.
Shingle-Mate®- GAFMC’s shingle underlayment. Breather type with fiberglass backing to reduce wrinkles and buckles.
Side-laps- The area on rolled material where one roll overlaps the rolled material beneath it. Also called selvage edge on rolled roofing.
Side-walls- Where a vertical roof plane meets a vertical wall. The sides of dormers etc.
Soffit ventilation- Intake ventilation installed under the eaves, or at the roof edge.
Smart Choice® Limited Warranty- GAFMC’s standard shingle limited warranty.
Smart Choice® System Plus Limited Warranty- GAFMC’s next grade of enhanced warranty. Extended coverage for owners.
Starter strip- The first course of roofing installed. Usually trimmed from main roof material.
Steep slope roofing- Generally all slopes higher than 4/12 are considered steep slopes.
Step-flashing- Metal flashing pieces installed at side-walls and chimneys for weather-proofing.
StormGuard®- GAFMC waterproof underlayment. Film surfaced rolled underlayment, 1.5 squares coverage per roll.

T

Tab- The bottom portion of traditional shingle separated by the shingle cut-outs.
Tear-off- Removal of existing roofing materials down to the roof deck.
Telegraphing- When shingles reflect the uneven surface beneath them. Shingles installed over buckled shingles may show some buckles.
Timberline® Series- GAFMC’s trademark name for laminated wood shake style shingles.
TIMBERTEX®- GAFMC enhanced Hip and Ridge Shingles.
Transitions- When a roof plane ties into another roof plane that has a different pitch or slope.

U

Under-driven- Term used to describe a fastener not fully driven flush to the shingles surface.
Underlayments- Asphalt based rolled materials designed to be installed under main roofing material, to serve as added protection.

V

Valleys-Area where two adjoining sloped roof planes intersect on a roof creating a "V" shaped depression.
Vapor- Term used to describe moisture laden air.
Ventilation- The term used in roofing for the passage of air from an enclosed space.

W

Warm wall- The finished wall inside of a structure, used in roofing to determine how to install waterproof underlayments at eaves.
Warranty- The written promise to the owner of roofing materials for material related problems.
Waterproof underlayments- Modified bitumen based roofing underlayments. Designed to seal to wood decks and waterproof critical leak areas.
Weather Stopper® Integrated Roofing System™- GAFMC’s complete roofing system and components.
Weather Watch®- GAFMC’s granule surfaced waterproof underlayment.
Woven Valleys- The method of installing valleys by laying one shingle over the other up the valley center.

SOURCE: http://www.americanhomecontractors.com/GAF.htm